Lake District Walks

The summit of Wild Boar Fell

Map based on Ordnance Survey mapping by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office. © Crown Copyright.

Start: Disused quarry near Cotegill Bridge
Grid Ref: 7749688
Distance: 7 miles (11km), climbing 1,460 feet (445m)
OS Map: Outdoor Leisure 19 (Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley)
Walking Time: 4 hours

A monk, renowned for preaching dull sermons, was crossing what is now Wild Boar Fell, carrying one of his dry-as-dust sermons when a wild boar attacked him. In a flash he thrust the parchment containing his sermon down the boar's throat; and the wretched creature died of thirst. The story is spurious. The fell is so named because the last wild boar in Westmorland is said to have been killed there by Sir Richard Musgrave of Hartley Castle. There is nothing doubtful about the flavour of real mountaineering this celebrated walk engenders, for which a settled day should be chosen. The climb is sustained but not too severe; and the disused quarry near Cotegill Bridge, on the B6259 between Kirkby Stephen and Garsdale Head, makes a good parking area.

There are no recognised footpaths on Wild Boar Fell, but for decades walkers have enjoyed unrestricted access to this uncultivated, high fell country. To maintain the status quo, all that is required is that this gloriously wild countryside is given the respect it deserves. To the intelligent, country-loving readers, behaving responsibly is second nature, so please forgive me for emphasising the obvious; and enjoy Wild Boar Fell, Eden's finest mountain.

From the old quarry, walk towards Cote Gill Bridge and, short of it, turn left through a gate. Continue along the foot of the fell, alongside a wall on the right, soon to reach Ais Gill, which the Settle-Carlisle line crosses on a viaduct. Cotegill Bridge is popular with snap-happy railway enthusiasts because from it trains, climbing out of Mallerstang to nearby Aisgill summit on a long curve, have for a backdrop the impressive Wild Boar Fell.

Go upstream briefly to Low White Kirk, one of Ais Gill's two fascinating limestone ravines, where turn right, over moorland, edging towards then following a wall on your right. Where it curves right, bear left, aiming for the clear line of Angerholme Pots, a conspicuous fracture between peaty
moorland and a limestone pavement. Edge it, along a climbing path, onto the ridge and turn left along it, climbing to the Nab, from where the view down Mallerstang is breathtaking.

On more than one occasion I have sat up here watching a stalking fox. This highly adaptable mammal has a strong sense of smell and its pointed ears are sensitive scanners. Its eyes are better adapted for nocturnal hunting than for daylight vision.

There is a tumulus on the Nab: it is a small mound with a cairn on it. From it continue along the scarp's edge to a small group of cairns, from where go north-westerly to the highest point of Wild Boar Fell's flat top, a wind shelter wrapped around a triangulation column, 2,324 feet (708m) above sea level. 'Paterson's Roads' of 1826 contains the following reference:

'Among the eminences which rise in this neighbourhood is Wild Boar Fell, the giant of the group, which soars to a great height; it has a spacious plain on its summit where the shepherds of the vicinity formerly held horse races and from whence the prospect is extensive and highly interesting. '

From this trig point, given clear conditions, a full circle of mountain panorama unfolds. From northerly Cross Fell, turning clock wise, Nine Standards Rigg and Mallerstang Edge, fronting Birkdale Common, are revealed. Abbotsford Common is next with, behind it, Great Shunner Fell, south of which the unmistakable shapes of Ingleborough and Whernside tower majestically. The Howgills dominate the western horizon, and completing the circle are Lake land's eastern fells.

The top of Wild Boar Fell is millstone grit, and sandwiched between it and its massive limestone base is a layer of sandstone and shale. Sand Tarn, on its western side, lies on a bed of millstone grit sand. Many years ago, Mr Greenhow, a Crosby Garrett blacksmith, used to collect millstone grit sand from Sand Tarn, which he liberally sprinkled over tar-covered, narrow-handled boards, thus making strickles, which were used for sharpening scythes.

From the trig point, go south-westerly along a faint track that soon curves southwards past the remains of Old Workings. Cross a stile in a facing fence and descend the depression between Wild Boar Fell and Swarth Fell. On reaching a wall end-on, continue, climbing onto Swarth Fell, close to the wall on your right. A cairn on an outcrop, a little away from the wall, marks the summit of Swarth Fell. From it there is a fine view of Mallerstang framed by Wild Boar Fell's steep escarpment.

Continue along the top of Swarth Fell between the wall and the scarp on the left. When close to its far end, bear right towards a fence, a continuation of the wall, to two cairns on Swarth Fell Pike, from where there is a good view across Grisedale to Baugh Fell.

Now turn left for a quick descent of the mountain's north-eastern flank. The way is undefined, and the route I advise is at first between Smithy Gill on the right and Far Cote Gill, gradually curving left to cross the latter and then edge its left side.

This will bring you directly to the quarry where the car is parked. Alternatively, bear right, crossing shallow Smithy Gill and aiming for Aisgill Moor cottages. On reaching the B6259, turn left along it for a short distance to the quarry parking area.

Whichever route is chosen, you will probably have kestrels for company. They are quite at home around the head of Mallerstang, and are frequently seen hovering above Wild Boar Fell's scarp. This magnificent bird with pointed wings and a long tail is protected by law. Moreover, it is the farmer's friend because it eats mice, rats, voles and harmful insects. It is the most common of Britain's day-flying birds of prey, and is easily recognised by it hovering flight, with its tail fanned out and wings flapping vigorously as it scans the ground for food. Its seldom-used 'kee kee kee kee' call has been heard along the Eden for centuries.

Kestrels were hunting the surrounds of Wild Boar Fell when the first sod of the Settle-Carlisle Railway in Westmorland was cut by Mr Parkin Blades, agent for Sir Richard Tufton of Appleby Castle, in 1870. That was the year the line reached Aisgill's summit, 1,169 feet (356m) above sea level at the top end of Mallerstang, from where it was downhill all the way to Carlisle.

Kestrels were soaring above Wild Boar Fell when, throughout 1872, constant heavy rainfalls provided conditions so atrocious that workmen building No 19 bank in Mallerstang tipped materials onto the same place for twelve months without the embankment becoming any higher. A combination of loose, soft earth and incessant rain turned what should have been a solid foundation into slurry that spread along the valley bottom.

Kestrels were still resident, though no doubt sleeping at that time of night, when, at 3.04am on the 2nd September 1913, signalman Clemnet in Aisgill signalbox saw what he described as a red mist rising and falling in the night sky, which turned out to be the crash of the 1.49 train from Carlisle, in which fourteen passengers died.

Kestrels still hunt around Wild Boar Fell as southbound trains daily face the steady climb from Kirkby Stephen to Aisgill on an average gradient of 1 in 100. Long may this happy situation remain.

The information given in this walk has been provided in good faith and is intended only as a general guide. Whilst all reasonable efforts have been made to ensure that details were correct at the time of publication, the author and Country Publications Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for inaccuracies. It is the responsibility of individuals undertaking outdoor activities to approach the activity with caution and, especially if inexperienced, to do so under appropriate supervision. The activity described in this walk is strenuous and individuals should ensure that they are suitably fit before embarking upon it. They should carry the appropriate equipment and maps, be properly clothed and have adequate footwear. They should also take note of weather conditions and forecasts, and leave notice of their intended route and estimated time of return.