Yorkshire Walks

Robin Hoods Bay and Boggle Hole

Map based on Ordnance Survey mapping by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office. © Crown Copyright.

Distance: 5 miles (8km)
Allow: 2 1/2 hours
Parking: Pay and display car parks in centre of village
Map: OS Outdoor Leisure 27
Tea Shop: Bramblewick Tea Rooms (open daily from Easter to October, weekends during winter)

If you undertake this walk at dusk, you may catch sight of smugglers moving their contraband under cover of darkness or even a mischievous hobgoblin hiding in its cave.

Considered by many to be the prettiest fishing village on the Yorkshire coast, Robin Hood's Bay, or simply 'Bay' if you are local, clings precariously to steep cliffs, its tiny cottages with their distinctive red pantile roofs crowding around the ravine of King's Beck for protection against the fierce winds that blow in from the North Sea. The day I visited the village, a strong wind whipped up a high tide sending waves crashing up the main street as far as the tea room's door, which reminded me of the story of a ship whose bowsprit smashed the window of a pub! This stretch of coastline is notorious for its storms; indeed in 1780 the main King Street was washed away taking some cottages with it, and many more houses have been lost to the sea since. A sea wall was built in 1975 which keeps the worst of the waves at bay; however, it is only a temporary measure as the relentless erosive action of the waves is eating away at the surrounding cliffs at a rate of five centimetres every year.

Robin Hood's Bay has been an important fishing village since the 1500s with over 130 families living off the sea during the 1830s. Once a haunt of smugglers, it was said that their illegal contraband of rum, brandy and tobacco could be moved through the village via a maze of tunnels and secret passages without ever seeing the light of day. A handful of traditional fishing boats, or cobles, are still launched along the slipway quite literally at the end of the main street in the heart of the old village. This very steep road was built to replace King Street and links up the old village with the more modern development at the top of the bank, which grew steadily after the railway arrived in 1885 and was also where the more prosperous sea captains built their houses.

From the car parks above the old village, follow the steep road down into the heart of Robin Hood's Bay until you reach the slipway and the end of the road. Follow the steps to the right up Covet Hill that lead onto the promenade, then head along the path that climbs up the hillside to the right, with wooden steps in places, to reach the cliff-top path. A clear paved path follows the cliff edge all the way to the picturesque inlet known as Boggle Hole.

The path drops steeply down steps into the confines of the ravine, across a footbridge over Mill Beck beside the Youth Hostel, then climbs up more steps and onto a road. Turn right along this road then immediately turn to your left, marked 'Cleveland Way', and follow the steps steeply once again to the top of the cliffs with superb retrospective views of Robin Hood's Bay.

A Boggle is the local name for a hobgoblin, the mischievous 'little people' that were thought to live in caves along the coast as well as the more remote corners of the Moors. Boggle Hole was where smugglers used to land their contraband. This clifftop path affords superb views of Robin Hood's Bay, which sweeps in a graceful curve from the promontory of North Cheek, also called Ness Point, to South Cheek or The Old Peak. At low tide, bands of soft shale and hard limestone are revealed to spectacular effect in the shape of curving ridges. The haunt of geologists and fossil hunters, this rocky foreshore is a fascinating place to explore, but keep a careful eye on the rising tide.

Continue along the cliff-edge path, which soon leads down into the next ravine of Stoupe Beck, over a footbridge and then up to the right along a track to reach Stoupe Bank Farm. Follow the road passing the farm and then after passing the next group of buildings at Stoupe Brow Cottage Farm take the track to the right. Follow this track straight on then turn left over a stile, marked by a signpost, and head uphill keeping close to the hedge on your left and over another stile in a fence to the left of Home Farm. After this stile bear to the right up across the field to reach a stile by a gate at the top of the field which leads onto the old railway line. Turn right and follow the old trackbed as it gently curves round to the right for one mile until it drops down to reach a road.

Opened in 1885, this stretch of line from Scarborough to Whitby was one of the most dramatic routes in England with superb coastal scenery all the way; unfortunately this was not a consideration when Beeching wielded his infamous axe in 1965. Today the old trackbed is now used as a footpath providing an easy route through some beautiful countryside with deep wooded ravines and old railway bridges combining to make a fascinating walk.

At the road, turn left and follow it up bearing round to the right at the elegant Fyling Hall after which continue along the road for almost half a mile. Just before you come to the hill with a gradient of one-in-five, turn to your right along a track, marked by a signpost, and follow it down over the old railway line again and through some gates. After the second gate follow the path to the left alongside a fence, paved in places, which drops down into the confines of Mill Beck. Cross the footbridge over the stream, then head up across the field, bearing to the right to reach the top of the bank.

Turn right along the now level path keeping close to the hedge on your left to join the road. Follow the road to the left then after a short distance turn right along Mark Lane towards Farsyde Stud. As you approach Farsyde House take the well-marked path to the left that skirts around the buildings to join the cliff-top path again, where you turn left and retrace your steps back into Robin Hood's Bay.

There are several theories as to why this little fishing village should be named after the famous outlaw, one of the most common is that Robin Hood fled here to escape capture and disguised himself as a fisherman.

From Tea Shop Walks on the North York Moors and Coast by Mark Reid

The information given in this walk has been provided in good faith and is intended only as a general guide. Whilst all reasonable efforts have been made to ensure that details were correct at the time of publication, the author and Country Publications Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for inaccuracies. It is the responsibility of individuals undertaking outdoor activities to approach the activity with caution and, especially if inexperienced, to do so under appropriate supervision. The activity described in this walk is strenuous and individuals should ensure that they are suitably fit before embarking upon it. They should carry the appropriate equipment and maps, be properly clothed and have adequate footwear. They should also take note of weather conditions and forecasts, and leave notice of their intended route and estimated time of return.